Hey Knitters!
Let’s talk sweater construction! I hear knitters debate this all the time—what’s the best way to knit a sweater? Back in the day, sweaters were knit in pieces and then sewn together. These days, most knitters prefer knitting in the round. And there are so many ways to do it—raglan, yoke, saddle shoulder, drop shoulder… the list goes on!
So, what’s your go-to sweater construction?
Finding Your Favorite (or Not!)
One thing I’ve learned? How a sweater is constructed can make or break whether you actually love wearing it. It’s all about personal preference, so there’s no right or wrong answer—just what works for you.
If you’re new to sweater knitting, I highly recommend trying a few different styles to see what you like. Over time, you’ll start to understand how different constructions shape the fit and feel of a garment. And then? You’ll start tweaking things—borrowing techniques from one pattern, mixing them with another, and making each sweater truly yours. That’s the beauty of experience!
Maybe you’ll swap out a 2x2 rib for a 1x1 twisted rib. Maybe you’ll add short rows to make the back a little longer. Or maybe you’ll tweak the sleeve shaping for a perfect fit. The more you knit, the more you’ll start making little adjustments without even thinking about it!
My Not-So-Standard Sweater Construction
I was watching a podcaster talk about his favorite sweater construction, and it hit me—I don’t actually have one! Not because I love them all, but because at this point, I just borrow elements from each and create my own Franken-sweater.
For example:
- I love the look of a raglan, but I prefer a lower crew neck, so I tweak my increases to make that happen.
- I find that a semi-saddle shoulder helps the sweater sit better on my shoulders, so I avoid increasing right away and make sure my shoulders have enough stitches at cast-on.
- I like the shaping created by yoke increases, so I sneak a few of those into my raglan/semi-saddle hybrid. It helps the sweater reach its full width faster and makes the underarms less deep.
- And because I love a good sporty fit, I always add extra stitches to the underarms—totally stole this trick from my overpriced merino wool outdoor gear!
So, when someone asks me, "What’s your favorite sweater construction?" I just kind of… stare blankly. A raglan/semi-saddle/pseudo-yoke? Yeah, that sounds about right.
Your Turn!
Now I’m flipping the question to you! How do YOU like to knit your sweaters? What’s your go-to construction? And what are some hard-earned lessons you’ve learned along the way?
This vs. That
8 Of My Favorite Sweater Modifications
Here are some tweaks I’ve made to my sweaters over time—maybe some of these will work for you too!
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Knitting the crew neck back and forth after the ribbing (1.5 inches) VS adding short rows in the neck to lower the front neckline.
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Casting on extra stitches for the shoulders and delaying increases (1-1.5 inches) VS a standard raglan with no shoulder allocation —helps the sweater sit better on my shoulders.
- Adding 1-3 yoke increases VS working more raglan increases—this speeds up the width of the sweater and adds more ease at the shoulders (because no one is built like a triangle!).
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Casting on more stitches at the underarm and decreasing later VS adding more increase rounds —this prevents excess fabric in the armpits. - Read the linked article for a bonus tip!
- Working short rows every 1-2 inches in the back after sleeve separation VS just knitting in the round —this keeps the back from riding up and the front from feeling too short.
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Allocating more stitches to the front (1-1.5 inches per side) VS splitting evenly—this helps accommodate a larger bust or belly without adding extra bulk in the back (or bust darts are also an option if you prefer).
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Adding a split hem at hip length VS a continuous ribbed hem—a split hem allows for more movement. Bonus tip: making the back hem longer makes it super easy to tell front from back at a glance!
- Concentrating sleeve decreases in the second half VS evenly spacing them —this gives more room in the upper arms (big arms, don’t care!).
So, tell me—what are your go-to sweater tweaks? What makes a sweater fit you just right?